Knots are older in China than writing, or so the Great Commentary to the Book of
Changes says: in high antiquity people were governed by knotted cords, and later
sages replaced the cords with written records. That is a statement about record-keeping
rather than decoration, but it is the reason Chinese writers have always treated a knot
as something that carries meaning.
In the novel, Oriole’s knots are not called Chinese knots, or knots at all. They are
luozi, knotted nets, and she reels off the patterns she knows like a menu:
the incense stick, the sky-facing stool, the elephant’s-eye squares, the fang sheng,
the linked rings, the plum blossom and the willow leaf. The one Baoyu picks is the
pattern she tied the week before for his cousin, the "plum blossom with a gathered
heart." That list is a fair picture of an eighteenth-century household craft, done by
women and maids, named for everyday things.
The modern name comes from Taiwan. Chen Hsia-sheng, who worked at the National Palace
Museum in Taipei, was introduced to knotting when her father-in-law, the calligrapher
and deputy museum director Chuang Yen, asked an old museum craftsman, Wang Zhenkai, to
teach her; he knew two knots, the button knot and the auspicious knot. She spent the
next decades collecting knots from objects in the museum and in antique shops, and in
1981 published a book with the Echo publishing house that called the craft "Chinese
knot," the name it has carried ever since, as the Taipei Commercial Times
reported in 2023. She also corrected herself in print: a knot she had first dated to the
Qing turned up in a photograph of a Tang tomb find, and she wrote another book to fix it.