The chart that circulates online is a third thing again. The version Healthline published
in 2019, which is typical of dozens, gives the forehead to digestion, the temples to the
kidneys and bladder, the space between the brows to the liver, the nose to the heart, the
cheeks to the stomach, spleen and lungs, and the chin and jawline to hormones. It
introduces the whole practice as three thousand years old and as "also known as mien
shiang."
At least part of the route into Western skincare ran through the salon. Dermalogica built
its signature professional analysis, Face Mapping, by dividing the face into fourteen
zones and checking each one for congestion, pigmentation, breakouts and dehydration, as
Nuvo magazine described it in 2012. The company's 2017 training manual for skin
therapists is candid about the lineage: its zone analysis is presented as "based on
insight from Chinese face diagnosis," linking the forehead to water intake or poor
digestion and one cheek zone to respiratory stress. Today the same name belongs to an AI
analysis on the brand's website that works from a selfie.
Put the popular chart beside the Canon's and you can watch the ideas drift. Some of it
survives. The chin belongs to the kidneys in the needling chapter, and in the opening
chapter of the Suwen it is the energy of the kidneys that brings on menstruation
at fourteen and makes a boy of sixteen able to father a child. Read the chin as the
kidneys and the kidneys as the organ of growing up, and "chin means hormones" is a short
step. That is our reading of how the idea traveled; nobody wrote down when the step was
taken. Other parts are rearranged. The Five Colors chapter puts the lungs between
the brows and the liver on the bridge of the nose; the popular chart moves the liver up
between the brows. The nose, which the original divides between heart, liver, spleen and
stomach from root to wings, becomes simply the heart.
And the object of attention has changed completely. The original reads a shift of color
across a zone, as one sign among several. The skincare chart reads a blemish in a zone, on
its own.
Two corrections to the standard introduction, while we are here. Mien shiang is a
loose spelling of mianxiang, which means face reading: the fortune-telling
practice, not the medical one. The medical practice is face inspection, one part of looking,
the first of the four examinations. And three thousand years is about a thousand too many.
The earliest record of the Inner Canon is its entry, in eighteen scrolls, in the
bibliography of the Book of Han, completed around 111 CE, and scholars date its
chapters to the last few centuries BCE and the first centuries CE. Two thousand years is a
fair round number.